When learning about hair clippers, one of the most common questions is the difference between open clippers and closed clippers. The terms “open” and “closed” refer to the position of the lever on the side of the clipper, which controls the cutting blade. Open clippers leave the blades slightly apart, allowing for a longer finish by cutting less hair, while closed clippers bring the blades closer together, resulting in a shorter cut. Knowing how to adjust between open and closed positions is essential for both professional barbers and people cutting hair at home.
The Role of the Clipper Lever
Every adjustable hair clipper features a lever on the side that adjusts the cutting length. When the lever is pushed up, the clippers are in the closed position, allowing for a closer cut to the scalp. When the lever is pushed down, the clippers are in the open position, giving a slightly longer cut. This simple adjustment makes clippers versatile for fades, blends, and maintaining various hair lengths without the need for constant guard size changes.
What Are Open Clippers?
Open clippers mean the lever is pushed downward, which slightly separates the cutting blade from the stationary blade. This results in a cut that is approximately 0.5 mm longer than with closed clippers. Open clippers are commonly used for blending and tapering, especially in the early stages of a haircut. They allow barbers to leave some length and avoid creating harsh lines, which is important when working on a smooth fade or transition.
Benefits of Open Clippers
Using clippers in the open position gives more room for blending and prevents uneven cuts. The slightly longer cut helps barbers soften the lines left by guards, creating a smoother transition. For home users, open clippers are useful when they want to avoid cutting hair too short by mistake. They provide more control and flexibility when practicing fading techniques or experimenting with different lengths.
What Are Closed Clippers?
Closed clippers mean the lever is pushed upward, so the blades are as close as possible. This setting cuts hair shorter, usually close to a zero gap depending on the clipper model. Closed clippers are used when creating sharp outlines, trimming hair close to the scalp, or preparing for a skin fade. They are also helpful when cleaning up the neckline, sideburns, and edges for a polished look.
Benefits of Closed Clippers
Closed clippers provide a clean and sharp finish. They are ideal for achieving a close cut and are necessary when starting the lowest section of a fade. Many barbers also use closed clippers for detailing and finishing touches around the ears and hairline. For individuals who cut their own hair at home, closed clippers are ideal for achieving a neat buzz cut or trimming stubble to a very short length.
Open vs Closed Clippers in Fading
Fading is one of the most essential techniques in barbering, and understanding open vs closed clippers makes all the difference. The open position helps create the first blending step, while the closed position ensures sharpness at the base of the fade. Switching between open and closed clippers allows smooth transitions and avoids visible lines in the haircut. This is why professional barbers constantly adjust the lever throughout a fade.
Using Guards with Open and Closed Clippers
Clipper guards work in combination with the lever. For example, using a #1 guard with closed clippers will cut shorter than using the same guard in the open position. This small difference in cutting length is what allows barbers to blend seamlessly. By learning how to combine guards with lever adjustments, you can master fading, tapering, and blending with fewer mistakes.
Open vs Closed Clippers for Home Haircuts
For beginners cutting hair at home, the difference between open and closed clippers may feel confusing at first. However, understanding this simple lever control can improve results dramatically. Open clippers are safer for cautious cuts, while closed clippers are better for precision and sharpness. Once you get used to switching between the two, your home haircuts will look more professional and evenly blended.
Professional Barber Tips for Lever Use
Barbers recommend starting with open clippers when working on fades and gradually closing the lever as you blend downward. This technique avoids harsh lines and helps maintain control over cutting length. Another tip is to always cut against the grain of the hair, whether using open- or closed-clippers, for a cleaner and more even result. Practicing with different lever positions will build confidence and skill.
Open vs Closed Clippers for Beard Trimming
The lever adjustment is not just useful for haircuts but also for beard grooming. Open clippers are ideal for trimming beards while maintaining some length, which prevents the beard from looking too sharp or patchy. Closed clippers, on the other hand, are excellent for defining cheek lines, neckline, and creating a well-shaped beard. Switching between the two helps achieve a balanced and natural look.
Common Mistakes with Open and Closed Clippers
One common mistake beginners make is not using the lever at all, relying only on guards. This limits blending ability and often leaves harsh lines. Another mistake is using closed clippers too quickly, which can result in cutting hair shorter than intended. To avoid these issues, practice moving the lever gradually and use both open and closed settings throughout the haircut.
Which Is Better: Open- or Closed-Clippers?
Neither open nor closed clippers are “better” on their own. Instead, they work together to give flexibility and control during haircuts. Open clippers are better suited for blending and creating soft transitions, while closed clippers are more suitable for achieving sharp lines and precise cuts. The real skill lies in knowing when to use each position depending on the haircut style and desired finish.
Conclusion: Mastering Open and Closed Clippers
Understanding the difference between open and closed clippers is a key step in improving haircutting skills. Open clippers provide blending and control, while closed clippers deliver sharpness and precision. Whether you are a professional barber or cutting hair at home, mastering lever control will make your cuts cleaner, smoother, and more stylish. By practicing with both settings and learning how to use them effectively with guards, you can consistently achieve professional-quality results.